A two day bike tour with the Wespels
28th and 29th April
8 of us, me and the Wespels, 8 bikes, van and car, drive to Rotach on Tergernsee, 70 kms south of Munich and 2 hours drive from home in Eisenharz. We are now in Bavaria. The last part of the drive down the lake is backdropped with forested hills which are snowy further away. We find a weekend park for the vehicles, unload and organise the bikes and set off.
We are: Zita, Gebhard (Zitas brother who new always stay with when in Germany), Hubert (Zitas other brother), Elizabeth (Huberts wife) and Markus, Stephan, and Beate (only 9) (Hubert and Elizabeths children.
We ride through the outskirts of town, past many gardens with brightly colourful displays of spring flowers and the first cut of spring grass spread out in the fields to dry. We are soon onto a narrow sealed road in the forest climbing from about 600 metres at the lake to 1050 metres at a saddle. The road follows a delightful rocky scampering stream.
The country opens out to flatish grazing area for stock, in winter a ski area, with higher mountain ridges about us. In a few minutes we start a great downhill rush. The road on this side of the saddle also follows pretty close to a steeply falling stream. Very often the stream is in a deep gorge. These gorges are generally vertically sided, clean of flood debri and gorgeously attractive. The the other side of the road from the stream, there are cliffs rising 100’s of metres, more or less vertical, and above this, forest hanging on impossibly steep slopes.
At the bottom of this 300 metre descent , we turn off the sealed road (ashphalt) and onto the unsealed route (schotter). This unsealed section is marked on the map as 11 kms long. I look forward to it. Our route climbs across opening grazing land high above the deeply gorged river, perhaps 300 metres below now. We stop at the top of this climb for lunch. Great weather, just a little wind and big mountains now upto 2500 metres. There are quite a few mountain bikers around, going in different directions or also stopping in this area for lunch. Quite apart from the huge variety of mountain walking possibilities in this area, there are also extensive mountain bike tracks throughout these alps.
Now back in the forest, the trail does a few ups and downs as it makes it’s way across deep gulleys and a cliff face to keep it above the river gorge. After an hour we drop back down to river level, during the descent seeing a Auerhahn – a very rare bird that is supposedly blind and walks about in small circles it’s head thrust in the air, making a sound like strangled vomiting in an attempt to attract a mate. It didn’t seem to be having much luck. I wonder if they ever do?
The next half hour is beside the river again once again with huge cliffs above what has become an unsealed road. We arrive at Kaiserhaus, an old farmhouse now converted into a restaurant. It is situated on an expansive valley floor perhaps 1 by 2 kms in dimension but also surrounded by more fairly vertical mountains. We spend 40 minutes walking up and back through Kaiserklam, a gorge that has had a track built along one wall. There are a couple of sections where, due to overhanging rock walking tunnels have been blasted through the rock. With the big vertical drops into the boldery torent below I am happy for the safety rail. We return to the restaurant and have dinner – me a Wienerschnitzel.
Although it is now about 5.30 pm we still have lots more ridding to do.
We head on, with an immediate 200 metre climb but now the road is sealed. A friendly Austian, gives Beate and Elizabeth a ride up the hill in his van and then further on to the main valley while the rest of us continue to ride. We emerge into a large plateau, maybe 5 by 3 kms in area, surrounded by high mountains and completely locked into the mountains by a massive gorge. How people managed to access this area before dynamite could be used to blast road into cliffs I don’t know. From our road on the hillside we can see some different farm communities the houses as ever in alpine style, rolling pasture land bordered by forest. In the evening light it was fairytale like in appearance added to by the sense of isolation.
We pedal on. We are now in Austria. Down down the road blasted into the walls of the impenetrable gorge baring access from the man valley below. Down and down in the cool evening mountain air. We arrive at Krumsack and are suddenly in a major valley – the Inn – with the river Inn which flows from Innsbruck, a big river, probably well swollen with spring melt. In the valley are a main highway and a railroad. We cycle up the valley on a cycle track beside the river. This cycle track is part of a cycle route that runs from Vienna to Santiago, a pilgrimage way of 3000 kms. The modern western is impoverished for the dearth of pilgrimage making. We find a Gasthaus for the night, E30 per night each including breakfast. Quiet, traditional and very pleasant. They even have a stuffed Aurhahn, like we had seen earlier in the day. Hunting has been a big part of the way of life for alpine people in Europe. It would have been survival.
After breakfast, Sunday morning, to Jenbach, we then have a 420 metre climb to Achensee. Distances and amounts of climb are a main topic of conversation in the group. There are two routes up One is the wider main road, but lots of fast traffic. The other a smaller windy steep road. A local tells us the the small road is very dangerous and narrow that they have lots of accidents it is definitely too dangerous to take a nine year old up. ‘You should take the bus up the main road’ he says. After some discussion, we decide to take the small road. It is narrow windy and steep and some cars roar past at a huge and stupid speed. But there are other cyclists on the road. It is at the narrow curvey parts, where cars come around the corner fast that are bad. At times people take turns at pushing Beate as she rides. We tend to ride outside her to provide a shield. At others she gets off to walk so someone will push her bike and their own. Inspite of the danger, as always, it is interesting and beautiful country with much to enjoy – and much more enjoyable from a bike than a car. We reach the top of the hill safely and with some relief.
Achensee is a long mountain lake about 15 kms long by 3 km wide, surrounded by large and interesting mountains up to about 2500 metres. Lots of good walking here. We take the cycle path north – stopping at the north end for lunch. The constant eating out is getting a bit expensive and nerving me somewhat.
Now we have more climb over two smaller passes – some of this section unfortunately on main road.
We cross back into Germany along this road.
From the final saddle it is a long slow descent to Tergernsee – now all on a cycle track through gentle forest. It is good to reach the end of our journey and enjoy an ice-cream. The ice-cream experience is considerably more sophisticated than in New Zealand. I’m sure it would be a goer at Oriental Bay if imported.
We stop at a restaurant on the way home which is considered by locals “richtig Bayern” (genuine Bavarian eating out in traditional style.
We are home by 10pm. A successful and memorable family shared experience. I find itv really great that the whole family can share a cycle tour like this. It is a regular activity that the Wespel’s do together. The biggest trip so far was 8 days!
My backside has remained in excellent condition with my new padded cycle shorts. And I think they look good too.
We are: Zita, Gebhard (Zitas brother who new always stay with when in Germany), Hubert (Zitas other brother), Elizabeth (Huberts wife) and Markus, Stephan, and Beate (only 9) (Hubert and Elizabeths children.
We ride through the outskirts of town, past many gardens with brightly colourful displays of spring flowers and the first cut of spring grass spread out in the fields to dry. We are soon onto a narrow sealed road in the forest climbing from about 600 metres at the lake to 1050 metres at a saddle. The road follows a delightful rocky scampering stream.
The country opens out to flatish grazing area for stock, in winter a ski area, with higher mountain ridges about us. In a few minutes we start a great downhill rush. The road on this side of the saddle also follows pretty close to a steeply falling stream. Very often the stream is in a deep gorge. These gorges are generally vertically sided, clean of flood debri and gorgeously attractive. The the other side of the road from the stream, there are cliffs rising 100’s of metres, more or less vertical, and above this, forest hanging on impossibly steep slopes.
At the bottom of this 300 metre descent , we turn off the sealed road (ashphalt) and onto the unsealed route (schotter). This unsealed section is marked on the map as 11 kms long. I look forward to it. Our route climbs across opening grazing land high above the deeply gorged river, perhaps 300 metres below now. We stop at the top of this climb for lunch. Great weather, just a little wind and big mountains now upto 2500 metres. There are quite a few mountain bikers around, going in different directions or also stopping in this area for lunch. Quite apart from the huge variety of mountain walking possibilities in this area, there are also extensive mountain bike tracks throughout these alps.
Now back in the forest, the trail does a few ups and downs as it makes it’s way across deep gulleys and a cliff face to keep it above the river gorge. After an hour we drop back down to river level, during the descent seeing a Auerhahn – a very rare bird that is supposedly blind and walks about in small circles it’s head thrust in the air, making a sound like strangled vomiting in an attempt to attract a mate. It didn’t seem to be having much luck. I wonder if they ever do?
The next half hour is beside the river again once again with huge cliffs above what has become an unsealed road. We arrive at Kaiserhaus, an old farmhouse now converted into a restaurant. It is situated on an expansive valley floor perhaps 1 by 2 kms in dimension but also surrounded by more fairly vertical mountains. We spend 40 minutes walking up and back through Kaiserklam, a gorge that has had a track built along one wall. There are a couple of sections where, due to overhanging rock walking tunnels have been blasted through the rock. With the big vertical drops into the boldery torent below I am happy for the safety rail. We return to the restaurant and have dinner – me a Wienerschnitzel.
Although it is now about 5.30 pm we still have lots more ridding to do.
We head on, with an immediate 200 metre climb but now the road is sealed. A friendly Austian, gives Beate and Elizabeth a ride up the hill in his van and then further on to the main valley while the rest of us continue to ride. We emerge into a large plateau, maybe 5 by 3 kms in area, surrounded by high mountains and completely locked into the mountains by a massive gorge. How people managed to access this area before dynamite could be used to blast road into cliffs I don’t know. From our road on the hillside we can see some different farm communities the houses as ever in alpine style, rolling pasture land bordered by forest. In the evening light it was fairytale like in appearance added to by the sense of isolation.
We pedal on. We are now in Austria. Down down the road blasted into the walls of the impenetrable gorge baring access from the man valley below. Down and down in the cool evening mountain air. We arrive at Krumsack and are suddenly in a major valley – the Inn – with the river Inn which flows from Innsbruck, a big river, probably well swollen with spring melt. In the valley are a main highway and a railroad. We cycle up the valley on a cycle track beside the river. This cycle track is part of a cycle route that runs from Vienna to Santiago, a pilgrimage way of 3000 kms. The modern western is impoverished for the dearth of pilgrimage making. We find a Gasthaus for the night, E30 per night each including breakfast. Quiet, traditional and very pleasant. They even have a stuffed Aurhahn, like we had seen earlier in the day. Hunting has been a big part of the way of life for alpine people in Europe. It would have been survival.
After breakfast, Sunday morning, to Jenbach, we then have a 420 metre climb to Achensee. Distances and amounts of climb are a main topic of conversation in the group. There are two routes up One is the wider main road, but lots of fast traffic. The other a smaller windy steep road. A local tells us the the small road is very dangerous and narrow that they have lots of accidents it is definitely too dangerous to take a nine year old up. ‘You should take the bus up the main road’ he says. After some discussion, we decide to take the small road. It is narrow windy and steep and some cars roar past at a huge and stupid speed. But there are other cyclists on the road. It is at the narrow curvey parts, where cars come around the corner fast that are bad. At times people take turns at pushing Beate as she rides. We tend to ride outside her to provide a shield. At others she gets off to walk so someone will push her bike and their own. Inspite of the danger, as always, it is interesting and beautiful country with much to enjoy – and much more enjoyable from a bike than a car. We reach the top of the hill safely and with some relief.
Achensee is a long mountain lake about 15 kms long by 3 km wide, surrounded by large and interesting mountains up to about 2500 metres. Lots of good walking here. We take the cycle path north – stopping at the north end for lunch. The constant eating out is getting a bit expensive and nerving me somewhat.
Now we have more climb over two smaller passes – some of this section unfortunately on main road.
We cross back into Germany along this road.
From the final saddle it is a long slow descent to Tergernsee – now all on a cycle track through gentle forest. It is good to reach the end of our journey and enjoy an ice-cream. The ice-cream experience is considerably more sophisticated than in New Zealand. I’m sure it would be a goer at Oriental Bay if imported.
We stop at a restaurant on the way home which is considered by locals “richtig Bayern” (genuine Bavarian eating out in traditional style.
We are home by 10pm. A successful and memorable family shared experience. I find itv really great that the whole family can share a cycle tour like this. It is a regular activity that the Wespel’s do together. The biggest trip so far was 8 days!
My backside has remained in excellent condition with my new padded cycle shorts. And I think they look good too.
1 comment:
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