Mikes Blog

Barcelona Day 2

8th April Our second day in Barcelona.

Breakfast is in a little Tabatia across the alley way from Pension Dali. 4 thick pieces of white cold toast, tea and coffee. We hear spanish, Geman, English and other languages. Back at the bus stop for ous second day on 'bus turistic'.It is a truely beautiful day. - holiday easter Monday and there is a queue which is over 50 metres long. We decide to walk instead, following the bus route off the map. Up Passeig de Gracia, passing and photographing Casa Batilo- a fremarkable apartment built from scratch to Gaudi design design and Casa Mila with a Gaudi facade on a pre-existing building It was actually much more satisfying to alk to these places and have time to appreciate them and their surroundings - rather than just rush past on the op of a bus. Turning east, we head along to the Sagrada Familia Cathedral (Holy Family). To me , photos of this Cathedral look unusual, even somewhat bizzare. The eality of being there coulddn't have been more different. I have never eve ever seen a a large building of such wonder and impact. It is an unbelievable structure. The depcition f religiuos scenes is so engaging. It is crammed with symbolismns (some might say over stuffed). Symbols I could relate to.It is described as Europes most unconventional church. Being at this Cathedral, in this space, justified for me the time, effort and money spent on our trip to Europe. For the last 16 years of his life, Gaudi, a deaply religious man, became a virtual hemit on the site of the church as it became his lifes major work. And the bulding is still far from finished. In all there are supposed to be towers for all the desciples (12) the 4 apostles (4) and the largest one for Jesus himself.. The project cntinues with ongoing architectural and artistic development. Gaudi's original panswere distroyed in a fire. In the world of today where almost all the big and expensive buildings are celebrations of capitalist competitio, it is deeply encouraging to a place for a large building expressing a yearning and resect for the sacred. Back on the bus for our next visit of the day to Parc Guell. To quote from our travel guide 'In 1910, Industrialist (and capitalist!) Eusebio Guell commisioned Gaudi to lay out a private housing estate on a hillside above Barcelona. The plan was to create a mini garden city with common amenities, leisure areas and decortive structures...' The most strking features of the park are those covered with 'trencadis' - mosais made up of broken tiles.' We visited te house where Gaudi lived before moving to the Sagrada Familia - saw his simple sngle bed, his praye bok, his highly exotic self designed furniture. . s we wandered the grounds, (with 100#s of others, there were musicians and peformers - one playing baroque music on the lute, music I know by Silvius Leopold Weiss - sounds from home. A full day. Back on the bus. Around the rest of the loop. Off the bu a Catalunya. A simple dinner in anotherItalian place. Tes, coffee and cake at a Starbucks. Then home to Pension Dali. The City is becoming familiar.

Day 1 in Barcelona

7th April 2007
The exit through cusoms at Barcelona is slow. Then through 'Nothing to Declare' and out onto the main service road for the airport.It is a specuial feeling to step out into Barcelona, Spain and Europe after 4 years away. We ask a taxi how much to the centre of town (Plaza de Catalunya)- 25 Euros. No thanks and we look for a bus. One arrives immediately. Cost 0f E7.50. Thats a saving. Or driver was frustrated with hs work and life. It was leaking out of him like an illness. Off the bus at the Plaza and into Ls Rables - the most famous street in Barcelona. Famous because it is at the centre of the old city and around it spider a labyrinthine maze of shops cafes, hotels and apartments, streets that have existed for 100#s of years or more. With map in hand we wander down #Los Rambles# and soon find our side street. 1 minute down this was #Pension Dali# our accomodation for the next three nights. Up two flights of stais to reception- simple and friendly and worn. Room 306, shared bathroom, about E50 per night. The view from the window was of similar apartments about 10 metres away on the other side of the alley - except onthe ground level it is cafe and restaurants It is a coldish spring afternoon as we head back to Plaza Catalunya to buy our tickets for 'Bus Turistic'. E21 gives us two days of get on get off city tour bus service on three different routes. We take the north green route and immediately see building designed by Antoni Gaudi. I had seen photos of these before but was completely unprepared for the exravagance of invention and expressive freedom in this architect. I an not find words to describe such crazy, beautiful, playful, entrancing, free forms. The looseness of form is like some wild muntain landscapeof improbable pinacles and towers. Yet there is unity also which coheres a whole. Our bus climbed into the hills to the east above the city. I wondered what it would have been like to have grown up in this city. We arrive at an exhibition building crated specially for the works of 'Miro'. This was along the 'Avinguda de Mirarmar' (Mirarmar Avenue). This was one of Zita's long planned Art stops. For me I found it hard to respond to the Miro work. I was impressed by his description of his creative process. He said that when starting a creative project, or work, he would go into a state of deep unease and tension. This would only be resolved when he was able to fully realise the work. This process might take years.. Also, although he engaged colloratively with others, and learnt new techniqus from them, he also had a great need for long periods of time alone while he was working. Back in the Bus it was back down the hill and to the water front. Lots and lots of posh yatchs and launches. There must be plenty of money here. We are now feeling a bit jaded but a big shopping complex gives Zita a lift. However there was nothing special here. Continuing on the open topped buswe are now pretty tiredand worn out. Zita falls asleep as we pass other points of interest. , not taking much in. Back at the Plaza Caalunya, a quick Pizza and salad at an Italien placein Los Rambles before our first proper European sleep of the trip. Out like a light. Gone for 8 hours straight. Great to get the new wake-sleep pattern started.

Wellington to Barcellona
We leave Wellington Airport at 11 am on Friday 6th April. It' going to be a long day. Dear friends Sue, Paul, Ted and Jack come to the airport to see us off. Thanks guys.
Later ... It is 1.45 am NZ time. It is 9.35 Singapore time. No sleep yet. The plane leaves for Milan then Barcelona in about 2 hours. So we need to stay awake until we get on the plane. Know the feeling!! Wouldn't it be great if they upgraded us to Business Class because it is Zita's 50th! On the plane I am doing a little desperate German bookwork and also reading a book about a guy who cycled from London to NZ. Australia looked gorgoeous as we flew across today. There was a strange shaking as the plane took off but we have arrived in one piece. Time to go and sit. This is a free internet connection but no option to add photos.

later...
It is 11.45 pm as we leave Singapore with another 13 hours of flying ahead. Now is the time to sleep. (It is already am NZ time). I amange to doze reasonably successfully. As always , following the flight path on the small personal screen on the back of the seat infront is fascinating. We travel over Pakestan, Croatia, there is Sabastopol where Zita#s dad fought in WW2. There is Tehran, the Caspian sea, The Black Sea, Istambul, athens - where we will be in 3 weeks to start our litle tour of Greece.With dawn comes views of the North Italien Alps as we descend towards Milan - with lts of snow - which will probably mean only limited mountain walking in Allgau in two weeks.
At Milan airport we go into transit for Barcelona. It feels like we are back in Europe.
An hours further flight takes us to our first visiting point - Barcelona. rom the plane I believe I can see the Cinque Tere coastal area where we will be walking in 10 days.